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Thread: Do-It-Yourself

  1. #1
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    Default Do-It-Yourself


    Do-it-yourself: Fire pit porch
























    It took me just about 3 days; first day was digging the holes and setting the uprights. All the wood is pressure treated 6x6's. Next day was finishing building it. And the 3rd was spreading the gravel and setting the fire pit and staining the pressure treated. I bought the swings offline from Louisiana Cypress Swings and Things and had to wait a week or more for them to be shipped.

    I didnít have any building instructions to go by, pretty much just winged it. I laid out the hexagon in the yard so that center for the uprights for each bay was 7' apart because I knew I wanted to get 5' swings. I had 14' from each upright to the upright opposite of it. I'm not sure what the angles were, I just took two pieces of scrap and laid them up there and messed around cutting a few until I got the angle right. We got all the top pieces set up there before lagging them all in. Left one bay swingless so that I could carry firewood in.

    I got 6x6x10's for the uprights and they are sacreeted almost 3 feet in the ground. I guess itís a little over 7 feet to the bottom of the 6x6x8's on top.

    Materials I used were
    6- Bags of Sacreete (or Quickcreete - whatever you call it) one for each upright.
    6- 6x6x10's (for the uprights)
    6- 6x6x8's for the top sections
    6- 2x6x8's for the stabilizers that go kitty corner on top of 6x6's (for strength)
    24- 3/8's x 8" lags for laggin the top horizontal pieces to the uprights (countersunk)
    24- 4" Deck screws for screwing the top pieces together horizontally before lagging them.
    24 - 3" Deck screws for screwing the top 2x6 stabilizers to the 6x6's
    10- 3/8x8" eyebolts with nuts and washers for hanging the swings

    Hope this helps with anyone that's looking to give it a shot.

    http://forums.bowhunting.com/water-c...-campfire.html
    Attached Files

  2. #2
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    Default

    Do-it-yourself: Staircase Drawers



    Some time ago, I got an idea that forms the basis for this project. Iím not sure where I first saw it, but some clever builder installed bookshelves in the space under each staircase turning the book spines into the riser faces. Itís easiest to build these drawers if your stairs have open stringers. If they do, skip ahead to the drawer building section of this project. If your stairs have riser faces on the front of the stringers, youíll need to remove them first. A few taps from behind will free the risers if they were nailed in after the treads. If the risers were installed first, remove the treads before tackling the risers. Take extra care removing the risers so you can use them to make the drawer fronts.

    Determining dimensions

    Before building the drawer box, measure the distance between the inside faces of the stringers and the distance from the top of a stair tread to the bottom of the next stair tread. Determine the required dimensions using the formula in the materials list.

    Drawer building

    Begin by ripping the 5/8" medium-density fibreboard (MDF) to width. Cross cut the drawer box sides, back and front to length. Cut the drawer bottom groove with a tablesaw. Set the fence 1/2" from the blade and the depth to 1/4". Pass along the inside bottom edge of each drawer piece, then adjust the fence away from the blade. Repeated passes widen the groove. Simple rabbets milled on the front and back of the drawer create the box corner joints. Cut the rabbets using a tablesaw and assemble with glue and finishing nails. Cut the bottom panel to size-making sure it sits in the drawer bottom groove as you bring all four sides together.

    Let it slide


    Mount the drawer slides onto 1/2" plywood spacers. These spacers perform two functions: they extend the drawer slide mounting area beyond the stringer's back edge; and, they are adjustable to accommodate the angled irregularities common with builder-grade stairs. Cut and install the spacers with screws. Each drawer slide comes in two pieces. One attaches the drawer to its mate on the stringer. First attach the drawer slides to the drawer box and then place the drawer on a couple of 1/4"-thick shims on the tread. Mark the mating drawer slide location on the plywood spacers. Level and attach the stair-mounted drawer slides and slide the drawer into place. The drawer should be flush with the front edge of the stringer when in the closed position.



    Complete the drawer by ripping the removed riser to width and attach it to the drawer box with screws from behind. Drill a 3/4" finger pull hole and the first drawer is done. Fill any holes left over from the removal of treads and risers with latex filler and touch up with matching paint. Only ten more to go!

    Materials




    Plans



    http://canadianhomeworkshop.com/2238...rs#projecttabs
    Attached Files

  3. #3
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    Default

    For Do-it-your-selfers, check out IKEA Hackers. Make cool, stylish furniture out of modular IKEA cabinets, drawers, etc.

    http://www.ikeahackers.net/

  4. #4


 

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